Something

 Very nice presentation of some of the issues surrounding the Big Bang theory.

Indeed, sold me on the idea that asking what came before the Big Bang as a way of asking

how something could come from  nothing is silly. There was something there, and to 

the extent that the initial singularity is accepted, then one needs to ask what conditions could have 

left things in that state. What could have enabled such a crunch.

In effect, this is the intial insight of theistic creationism. Still holds. So why something

instead of nothing. Don't invest in it. It seems more logically easy, only it's false.

Enjoy:

Dangerously_Hot

 It's a heatwave, and we need to take things seriously!!

Wet Bulb warnings:

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/6fmW13ULbATfcAhyWXGb2

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/D1MqhkzzNVbyZFhVmuNRy

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/c5fhojEpyz74s26YXWLCR

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/DEBm4u9QCjuAVi8TxMPni

                                                                     *     *     *

So what happens if it rains at 28C, which is what is supposed to happen later today?

Rain at 28 °C is one of the trickiest and most dangerous heat‑wave situations because rain pushes humidity toward saturation, which can drive the wet‑bulb temperature sharply upward even if the air temperature doesn’t rise. This is exactly the kind of scenario that makes heatwaves in Quebec feel suddenly oppressive.

Here’s what actually happens — and why it matters.

🌧️ 1. When it rains at 28 °C, humidity often jumps toward 90–100%

Rain adds moisture to the air and reduces evaporation.

When humidity rises:

Sweat stops evaporating efficiently

The body loses its main cooling mechanism

Wet‑bulb temperature climbs toward the air temperature

This is the mechanism behind dangerous humid heat.

As explained in heat‑stress guidance, wet‑bulb temperature rises as humidity increases because evaporation slows down, reducing the body’s ability to cool itself .

🌡️ 2. What the wet‑bulb temperature becomes at 28 °C with rain

Let’s estimate:

Scenario A — Before rain (65% humidity)

WBT ≈ 24–25 °C  

→ Caution / High stress for vulnerable people

Scenario B — During rain (90–100% humidity)

WBT jumps to 27–28 °C  

→ Danger zone

This matches published heat‑stress categories where wet‑bulb temperatures in the 24–28 °C range correspond to high to dangerous heat stress, requiring reduced activity and careful monitoring .

If humidity hits 100%, WBT ≈ air temperature → 28 °C WBT, which is a level where exertional heat illness risk increases sharply. WBGT‑based guidance shows that WBGT values above 28 °C correspond to red‑zone danger, where only light activity is recommended and heat‑stroke risk rises dramatically .

🔥 3. Why rain can make heat feel worse, not better

Rain cools the air a little, but it also:

Eliminates evaporative cooling

Makes the air feel “heavy” and suffocating

Causes sweat to sit on the skin

Increases risk of dizziness, nausea, and heat exhaustion

Medical guidance notes that high humidity traps heat inside the body, increasing risk of dehydration, heat exhaustion, and heatstroke even when temperatures are not extremely high .

So a rainy 28 °C can feel more dangerous than a dry 33 °C.

🧭 4. What this means for you today

You’re at the start of a heatwave, and rain at 28 °C is a classic “hidden danger” moment.

Expect:

Sticky, oppressive air

Sweating that doesn’t cool you

Higher heart rate

Fatigue or mild headache indoors

Outdoor exertion becoming risky

If you’re in a home without strong AC, this is when rooms start to feel “stuffy” and uncomfortable.

🛡️ 5. How to protect yourself during rainy heat

Avoid outdoor exertion during or right after the rain

Use fans to increase evaporation (they help even in humid air)

Drink water steadily

Take cool showers if you feel overheated

Keep blinds closed to reduce indoor heat load

Check on older adults or anyone with heart/lung conditions

🔍 Want me to calculate the exact WBT for your location when the rain starts?

Just tell me:

the temperature

the humidity (or I can estimate based on typical rain values)

I’ll place it on your heat‑risk scale and tell you how dangerous the next few hours will be.

Wet Bulb Temperature Calculator - Humidity & Heat Stress

                                                        *     *     *

Gemini AI:

I am trying to become familiar with the notion of Wet-Bulb Temperature, and discomfort in a heat wave. It would be helful if I had a visual temperature/humidity graph with discomfort to danger areas shaded in. Either from you, or as a site I could visit...

                                                                                     

https://share.gemini.google/r6Pb3j8mV9jD

                                                                  *     *     *

USA Occupational Health:

https://www.osha.gov/heat-exposure/wbgt-calculator

Renamed

 The renamed GST (Goods and Services Tax) credit - Essentials - should be

paid out this Friday. For the exact amount one could receive, the number

is on the individual's account with Revenue Canada.

So how would all this evolve over the next five years. The formula is ever

the same: The base is the old GST amount, indexed for inflation every year at

July. One then adds 25%... what makes this an aid for meeting essential expenses

when it is groceries and connex items that are showing large price increases.

So let's this in action. What might the amount be for 2027??

The maximum for an individual this July is 169.75$ per quaterly payment. Removing

the 25% top up, the base amount is thus 135.80. Now let's assume there is 3% inflation

over 2026. The base amount then becomes 139.87. Adding 25% to that gives 174.84.

And there we have it, our payment for 2027!!

                                                                                

     

Tech_Explosion

 

And it's only the beginning...

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/JfHJSo21cyjf7ynNGbKRn

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/qDbZ2uupDzk1vKXahsTd5

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/nNjmr4Cv1UzsfSddv6bhF

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/amuvDFd67u4Jeunq9BX96

                                                                 *     *     *

You and me...

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/Wy2oLV5r8z4Su1q89xiyq

https://copilot.microsoft.com/shares/6HGHNMBj3WFUySRfbJ6DT

Sweet_Smells

 Not sure about all this; I could end up smelling like a bag of potatoe chips...

Copilot:

It's been terribly wet and humid for days. I take out my t-shirts for a sunny day and everything smells musty. Would putting them in the dryer on the 'air' setting with a dryer sheet help, or would that just contaminate the dryer...?

Short answer: yes, the dryer on “air” (no heat) with a dryer sheet can help, and no, it won’t contaminate your dryer — as long as the shirts aren’t actively mildewed. But it’s only a partial fix. Let me give you the full picture so you don’t end up chasing that musty smell for days.

🌦️ Why your shirts smell musty right now

With the humidity you’ve had in Québec this week, fabrics absorb moisture from the air even while sitting clean in a drawer or closet. That “musty” smell is usually:

Damp fibers + stale air

A tiny bit of surface mildew starting (not visible yet)

Or detergent residue reactivating in humidity

This is super common in long wet spells.

🌀 Will the dryer on “air” help?

Yes — it will freshen them.  

The air cycle tumbles the shirts and pushes dry air through the fibers, which:

Removes the dampness causing the smell

Loosens any stale odor

Doesn’t heat-set anything unpleasant

A dryer sheet will add a pleasant scent, but it won’t “contaminate” the dryer. The dryer is designed to handle much worse (wet towels, gym clothes, pet bedding).

BUT: this only works if the smell is mild. If the odor is stronger, the dryer will just mask it.

🧺 When you need more than the dryer

If the mustiness is noticeable or keeps coming back, do this instead:

1. Rewash with a cup of white vinegar

Add 1 cup of white vinegar to the rinse cycle or directly into the drum.

Vinegar kills the early mildew smell and cuts detergent residue.

2. Dry them fully — even if it takes longer

Humidity makes dryers less efficient. Make sure they’re bone dry.

3. Add airflow to your closet/drawers

A small sachet of baking soda or cedar helps prevent the smell from returning.

🧴 Quick “emergency freshen” options (no rewashing)

If you want to wear the shirt today:

Dryer on air with a dryer sheet (your idea — totally fine)

10 minutes in the dryer with a damp washcloth + a splash of vinegar  

(the vinegar evaporates, taking the smell with it)

Hang in direct sun for 30–60 minutes  

Sunlight is a natural deodorizer and kills mildew spores

🌼 My recommendation for your situation

Given the weather you’ve had and the fact you’re dealing with multiple shirts at once, I’d do:

Dryer on air for 10–15 minutes to see if the smell lifts.

If they still smell musty, rewash with vinegar — that’s the only method that truly resets the fabric.

If you want, I can help you set up a humidity-proof clothing routine so this stops happening every time Québec turns into a rainforest.

                                                                      *     *     *

Predictable

 I've been at this for a month: repairing a few rust outbreaks on an

aging but still awesome white Subaru. The incessant and inopportune rain events have

not been helping the process. And just when I am ready for the final run of primer and

paint, there it was. A splash of what looked like rust on one of my repairs.

I'm too old to let this get to me and  - wonder of wonders - I think I finally have an

overview of what needs to be done. Below...

Copilot:

Epoxy vs bondo filler

Short answer:  

Use epoxy filler when you need maximum strength, waterproofing, and long‑term durability.

Use Bondo (polyester) filler when you need speed, easy sanding, and cosmetic smoothing.

Below is the clear, practical breakdown you actually need for real-world repairs — especially relevant to your Subaru rust work.

🛠️ Epoxy Filler vs. Bondo (Polyester Filler): What Actually Matters

1. Strength & Durability

Epoxy filler is much stronger and bonds aggressively to metal and wood. It resists moisture and doesn’t shrink.

Bondo is a polyester filler — fast and easy, but softer and more prone to cracking over time, especially in stressed or rust-prone areas.

Winner: Epoxy for structural integrity and rust-prone areas.

🌧️ 2. Moisture Resistance (Critical for Rust Repairs)

Epoxy is naturally waterproof and ideal for sealing metal before paint.

(Supported by epoxy’s use in rot repair and outdoor wood restoration.) 

Bondo is not waterproof and absorbs moisture unless perfectly sealed with primer and paint.

Winner: Epoxy — especially for Canadian winters, salt, and Subaru wheel arches.

⏱️ 3. Working Time & Ease of Use

Bondo spreads easily, cures in 10–20 minutes, and sands like butter.

Epoxy cures slower (hours), is stickier, and is harder to sand.

Winner: Bondo for speed and beginner-friendly shaping.

🪵 4. Shrinkage & Long-Term Stability

Epoxy: Minimal to zero shrinkage.

Bondo: Shrinks 5–10% as it cures.

This is why Bondo repairs sometimes “ghost” through paint months later.

Winner: Epoxy for stability.

🔧 5. Sandability & Finish Quality

Bondo sands extremely easily and feathers beautifully — ideal for final cosmetic smoothing.

Epoxy is harder and slower to sand; better as a base layer than a finishing layer.

Winner: Bondo for finishing.

🧩 6. Best Use Cases (Real-World)

Use Epoxy Filler When:

You’re repairing rusted metal

You need waterproof, long-lasting repairs

The area flexes or sees vibration

You want maximum adhesion

You’re filling deeper voids or pitted metal

Use Bondo When:

You’re doing cosmetic smoothing

The metal is already solid and rust-free

You want fast curing and easy sanding

You’re feathering edges before primer

You’re filling shallow dents or scratches

📌 Summary Table

                                                                                                   

🔍 For your Subaru rust repair

Because you’re dealing with rust spots, Canadian climate, and white paint (unforgiving):

Best sequence for a durable repair:

Sand to clean bare metal

Apply epoxy filler (or epoxy-based rust sealer) to stabilize and waterproof

Shape lightly

Apply a thin skim of Bondo on top for perfect feathering

Sand smooth

Prime → paint → clear

This gives you epoxy strength + Bondo smoothness.

If you want, tell me the size and depth of the rust spot, and I’ll map out the exact filler combo and sanding grits for your specific panel.

Help me identify an epoxy product....

You’ve got several excellent epoxy options for automotive metal repair — and the products below are the ones that actually behave like true epoxy fillers (strong, waterproof, permanent), not just cosmetic putties.

Here are the best matches from the catalog, all suitable for rust repair, metal bonding, and long‑term durability:

⭐ Best Epoxy Products for Automotive Rust Repair

1. J-B Weld SteelStik (Epoxy Putty Stick)

Steel‑reinforced, kneadable putty

Excellent for filling holes, rebuilding missing metal, and sealing rusted areas

Waterproof and cures hard enough to drill/sand

Great for small to medium rust perforations

2. J-B Weld KwikWeld (Syringe Epoxy)

2‑part liquid epoxy, sets in ~6 minutes

Stronger bond than polyester fillers

Ideal for bonding metal patches, sealing seams, or creating a base layer before Bondo

3. J-B Weld Original / Pro (Cold Weld Epoxy)

Highest strength (up to ~5000 PSI)

Longer cure time = stronger bond

Best for structural reinforcement, underside repairs, and areas exposed to moisture/salt

4. Steel‑Reinforced Epoxy (Various J-B Weld Syringes)

Classic 1:1 mix

Bonds aggressively to bare metal

Sands and machines well after curing

Good for pitted metal, seams, and strengthening weakened areas

🧭 Which one should you choose?

If you want to fill rust holes or rebuild missing metal

→ SteelStik (putty form)

It’s moldable, waterproof, and cures rock‑hard.

If you want to seal bare metal and create a strong base layer

→ KwikWeld or Original J-B Weld  

These soak into micro‑pits and bond extremely well.

If you want maximum strength + long-term durability

→ J-B Weld Original / Pro  

Best for Canadian winters, salt, and vibration.

🛠️ Practical combo for your Subaru rust repair

For the most durable result:

Sand to clean bare metal

Apply liquid epoxy (KwikWeld or Original) to seal and strengthen

If needed, use SteelStik to rebuild missing metal

Sand smooth

Apply a thin skim of Bondo on top for perfect feathering

Prime → paint → clear

This gives you epoxy strength + Bondo smoothness.

If you want, tell me where the rust spot is, how big, and whether it’s perforated, and I’ll tell you exactly which epoxy to use and in what order.

                                                                                         

*     *     *

https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/tns6SPNdqHg?playlist=tns6SPNdqHg&autoplay=1&iv_load_policy=3&loop=1&start=280

Weather_Woes

 Copilot:

What’s the main thing making it hard right now —

the weather, the building treatments, or your own energy levels?

If I know which one is the biggest obstacle, I can tailor a routine that fits your day perfectly.

The weather; and the various networks no longer really help. MSN weather is right, but that's because they change upteen times a day... The Weather Network just gives odds: 40% chance of diluvian downpour, otherwise good to go. It's the gambling life...

Oh Louise… I feel this in my bones.

Québec weather apps right now are basically slot machines with clouds. You pull the lever and hope you don’t get “SURPRISE DOWNPOUR” as your prize.

Let me cut through the nonsense and give you something that actually works in real life — not in the fantasy world where The Weather Network thinks a 40% chance of biblical flooding is “helpful”.

🌦️ Why the apps feel useless

You’re not imagining it. Here’s what’s happening:

MSN updates constantly because it leans heavily on short‑term radar models.

Great for the next hour, terrible for the next 6.

The Weather Network uses probability models that try to cover every scenario.

So you get things like:

“40% chance of torrential downpour, otherwise sunshine.”  

Translation: We have no clue.

Environment Canada is slow to update but more conservative.

Good for big systems, bad for timing your grocery run.

You’re stuck between “too vague”, “too late”, and “too chaotic”.

🌤️ The trick that actually works in Québec

Forget the forecasts.

For timing your light shop, you only need one thing:

👉 Live radar + the movement direction of the cells

Radar doesn’t lie.

It shows what’s actually happening, not what might happen.

And in Québec, summer rain usually comes in fast-moving cells.

If you can see where the blobs are and how they’re moving, you can predict your safe window better than any app.

🧭 Your simple, reliable method

This is what people who work outdoors use — landscapers, delivery drivers, Hydro‑Québec crews.

1. Open radar (MSN or Environment Canada both fine)

You’re looking for green/yellow/red blobs.

2. Watch the animation for 10–20 seconds

You’ll see the direction:

West → East (most common)

Southwest → Northeast

Or the dreaded “pop‑up storms” that appear out of nowhere

3. Ask yourself one question

Is a blob heading toward St‑Jean‑sur‑Richelieu in the next 45–60 minutes?

If no → you’re good to go.

If yes → wait 20–40 minutes. These cells pass quickly.

4. After a cell passes, you usually get a 1–3 hour calm window

Perfect for your light shop.

This method is way more accurate than any forecast app for short trips.

🧩 Why this works better than forecasts

Forecasts try to predict the whole day.

You only need to predict the next hour.

Radar is real-time.

Forecasts are guesses.

You’re choosing the tool that matches the job.

🛒 Want me to make this even easier for you?

I can give you a daily “go/no‑go” window based on the radar pattern for your area — something like:

“Safe window now”

“Wait 30 minutes”

“Storm cell incoming, hold off”

“Clear for the next 2 hours”

Just tell me when you usually like to go out, and I’ll adapt it to your rhythm.

                                                                                                     

1:14 PM, I'm going out...